Snow White and Rose Red Puddings

The P's were our neighbors for over fifteen years. Mrs. P was a tall, large-boned woman who kept a house so clean that the odor of flax soap actually overcame the aroma of ginger and cardamom coming from her kitchen. Memories of childhood are funny things. My keenest memories of Mrs. P are the smell of her home at Christmas time and the fact that she had a son, my age, who was younger than his nephew. Way cool - at least to a five year old! My mother just shook her head, rolled her eyes and smiled - never said a word. My first exposure to the food of Scandinavia came from Mrs. P's kitchen. Her repertoire was limited, but the food that she made was incredibly good. Snow White and Rose Red are the names she gave to the puddings I'm working with today. Snow pudding is an incredible lemon dessert - it's so light and frothy that one bite will leave no doubt as to how it got it's name. Red pudding, more like a tart and fruity jelly, is delicious as well - especially when served with cream. Both are inexpensive, peasant fare that have become easy work with today's blenders and mixers.

Snow Pudding

Pudding Ingredients:
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1/4 cup cold water
1 cup boiling water
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (1 large lemon)
Zest of 1 large lemon
3 large egg whites (pasteurized or reconstituted dry white equivalent)
1/4 teaspoon salt

Custard Ingredients:
2 cups scalded milk, cooled
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions for Pudding:
1) Sprinkle gelatin over cold water; let sit for 5 minutes to soften. Add boiling water and stir to dissolve. Stir is sugar, juice, zest and salt. Refrigerate until gelatin is softly set. Beat until frothy and thick.
2) Beat egg whites until stiff. stir in gelatin mixture. Beat together until stiff enough to hold its shape. Pour into dessert glasses and chill until set. Serve with custard sauce. Yield: 6 servings.

Directions for Custard:
1) Combine egg yolks, sugar, salt and cooled milk in the top of a double boiler. Cook, stirring, over simmering water until the mixture lightly coats a spoon. Stir in vanilla. Chill. Pour over snow pudding at serving time.

Red Pudding - Rodgrod

Ingredients:
1-1/2 pounds fresh raspberries or strawberries, washed, drained and hulled if needed
2 to 8 tablespoons granulated sugar (sugar to taste)
2 tablespoons arrowroot, potato starch or cornstarch
1/4 cup cold water
1/4 cup fresh or whipped cream

Directions:
1) Place berries in blender jar. Blend until pureed. Strain thru a sieve.
2) Combine fruit puree, sugar and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly until sugar is dissolved.
3) Dissolve 2 tablespoons arrowroot in cold water. Stir into fruit mixture. Bring the mixture to a boil; stir until thickened. Remove from heat. Pour into dessert dishes. Chill for 2 hours or more. Top with cream before serving. Yield: 4 servings.

Tsalila and Slow Roasted Salmon

Tsalila (sah-lee-lah) is an event held by local Indian tribal confederations here in the Pacific Northwest. It's a yearly celebration that marks the return of spawning salmon to local rivers. The star of the show is the salmon. A single fish is ceremoniously returned to the sea to appease the old gods and there are, of course, the obligatory drums and dancing for the tourist trade. The highlight of the day is slow cooked salmon, strapped to poles, suspended over cedar embers and roasted to perfection. A hunk of salmon, fry bread, pruny corn and pit roasted potatoes is not a feast of Lucullean proportions, but it is mighty fine grub.

I returned from the festivities with salmon fillets and a plan - not involving poles or open fire - for cooking them. Years ago, Charlie Trotter developed a method for oven roasting salmon at a low (250 degrees F.) temperature. The result was a succulent, tender piece of fish that had glorious color and a melt in the mouth appeal. Helen Rennie and Jaden Hare have helped to popularize the technique and it's one worth keeping in your cooking quiver. It's fast, not too expensive and simple to execute. Today's picture was taken at the end of roasting. Isn't the color fabulous?

Slow Roasted Salmon

Ingredients:
4 (6-oz.) salmon fillets
1 bunch scallions, washed and trimmed
1 bunch fresh dill sprigs, divided use
2 to 3 lemons, thinly sliced, divided use
Juice of 1 lemon
2 to 3 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

Directions:
1) Bring salmon fillets to room temperature. Adjust a rack to middle third of oven. Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. Mist an 8 x 11 x 2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.
2) Place scallions in bottom of baking pan to form a bed for the salmon. Cover with dill and lemon slices. Place salmon, skin-side down, on top lemons. Squeeze lemon juice over all. Brush fillets with oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lightly top with more dill and lemon slices. Allow to sit at room temperature for 1/2 hour if time permits.
3) Bake in preheated oven for about 30 to 35 minutes, or until fillets can easily be pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Carefully transfer to a serving platter. Remove topping and garnish with some fresh dill and a lemon twist. Yield: 4 servings.

Saturday Musings 9-27-08

It's been a week of surprises and reunions. New readers from Macau, Vanuatu (New Hebrides), Spain, England and Australia joined with old friends from the food boards to cheer me on. Another friend, met last year in China, stopped by to say hello. Just goes to show - never underestimate the power of today's search engines. Thank you all. It's nice to know that there's someone out there! I'll be back with recipes on Monday, but till then....

1) A good laugh, CATME The Answer to Dinner Dilemmas provided by Lorie at Rice, Beans and Other Fine Things. Lorie is a southern gal with a great sense of humor and some wonderful recipes.

2) Great tips for Food Photography for Bloggers from Lolo at Vegan Yum Yum.

3) A blogging event - Regional Recipes - that celebrates food around the world from dp at Blazing Hot Wok. dp is looking for Greek recipes.

4) Information on How to Build A Blog at Wandering Chopsticks. The first part of this blog deals with plagarism and comments, but if you scroll to the very bottom of the screen, you'll find a wealth of information on how to build and personalize a blog.

5) and , finally, food for thought: Food is so primal, so essential a part of our lives, often the mere sharing of recipes with strangers turns them into good friends. Jasmine Heiler

Have a great weekend.....Mary

Endive, Pear and Watercress Salad

From the Kitchen of One Perfect Bite...This recipe is loosely based on one developed by Thomas Keller about a decade ago. The ingredients are readily available, though the cost of Belgian endive and walnut oil may put the salad into the once-in-awhile category for some. I love the way the ingredients in this salad marry; endive adds crunch and texture while the bitter-sweet flavors of watercress and pear play on the tongue. Candied walnuts replace croutons and add a final fillip to this luscious salad. When you are looking for something special or want to pamper yourself, I'd recommend this elegant and easy to prepare salad.

Endive, Pear and Watercress Salad...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite inspired by Thomas Keller

Ingredients:
4 Belgian endives, halved lengthwise, cored, cut crosswise into thirds
2 small, firm, ripe Bartlet pears, peeled, cord, thinly sliced, cut crosswise into thirds
1 large bunch watercress or baby arugula, stems removed
Salt and freshly cracked pepper
1/4 to 1/2 cup walnut and sherry salad dressing (see below)
3/4 cup candied walnuts (see below)

Directions:
1) Pour 3 to 4 tablespoons walnut and sherry salad dressing into a large salad bowl. Add endives, pears and water cress.
2) Toss just before serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; top with candied walnuts. Serve extra salad dressing at the table. Yield: 4 servings.

Walnut and Sherry Salad Dressing: Combine 3 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, 1/2 teaspoon sugar, 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and 2 tablespoons walnut oil in a shaker jar with lid. Shake to combine. Chill. Yield: 1/2 cup.

Candied Walnuts: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Spread 3/4 cup walnuts on a cookie sheet. Toast for 8 minutes, or until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons water. Add a pinch of cayenne and salt. Add 2 tablespoons brown sugar and toss to coat. Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper. Bake at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes , or until walnuts are brown and crisp. Transfer to a plate and cool in a single layer. Yield 3/4 cup.

Parsnip Bisque

Root vegetables are starting to arrive at farm stands and in the boxes of CSA Farm Share Supporters. If you are a locavore, and love green markets, a farm share might also interest you. My daughters, both of whom regularly put me to shame, are firmly committed to CSA. They contract with local farmers who, weekly, provide them with seasonally available produce. That means they cook with whatever is packed in their weekly boxes; at this time of year that includes parsnips - lots of them. Parsnips were originally cultivated in the Mediterranean and carried in the rucksacks of the Roman legions as they marched across Europe. The parsnip has a mild, carrot-like flavor that when cooked and pureed becomes a silky bisque with a flavor all it's own. I know my use of the word bisque is a misnomer; this delight contains no seafood, and, therefore, should be called a soup. I can't, however, bring myself to call something so smooth and silken a soup. Serve this with fresh bread and a salad for a light fall supper. It's also great as a first course for holiday meals. It freezes well, so it can prepared well in advance of serving. It's quick, easy and inexpensive, so why not give it a try.

Parsnip Bisque

Ingredients:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 cups thinly sliced onions
8 to 12 cups (2 to 3 lbs.) parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced
6 cups (1/1/2 lbs.) baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
2 teaspoon salt + salt to taste
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup whole milk
Garnish: shredded basil, nutmeg

Directions:
1) Heat butter and oil in a large (6-quart) stock pot. Add onions and cook over medium heat until onion are soft but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add parsnips and potatoes; sprinkle with 2 teaspoons salt and toss to coat. Cover, cook, stirring occasionally, over low heat until tender, about 20 minutes.
2) Add chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cover partially and cook until vegetables are very tender, about 10 to 15 minutes.
3) Puree soup using an immersion blender. Alternatively, use a blender and puree soup in batches until perfectly smooth. Stir in milk; cook just to heat through. Season with salt to taste. Ladle into bowls and garnish with basil and a pinch of nutmeg. Yield: 6 servings.

Cook's Note: Turnips can substituted for parsnips.

Lemon-Scented Ice Milk with Berries and Wine Sauce

This is an absolutely beautiful dessert. It's inexpensive and relatively simple to make, though it must be prepared well in advance of serving. The only special equipment you'll need is a stand mixer. The operative word for this recipe is cold. The milk, chilled icy-cold, will whip like cream and produce a delightful lemon-scented iced milk. If you are watching calories, pureed cottage cheese can be used in place of heavy cream and Splenda can replace the sugar in the wine sauce. A quick aside about sugar substitutes - don't use them in meringue; the end product will lack volume and be sticky. Use pasteurized or reconstituted egg whites if there are very young or very old diners at your table. This is an All-American dessert; you'll love the ice milk and the wine sauce is really delicious.

Lemon-Scented Ice Milk with Berries and Wine Sauce

Ingredients:
3 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream or pureed cottage cheese
1-2/3 cup + 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided use
Zest of 1 large lemon cut into thin strips
1 cinnamon stick
4 large egg whites
1 cup water
2 cups frozen unsweetened mixed berries
1/2 cup port wine or grape juice
1/2 cup fresh raspberries
1/2 cup fresh blackberries
1/2 cup fresh blueberries
Mint sprigs for garnish

Directions:
1) Combine milk, cream, 2/3 cup sugar, lemon zest and cinnamon in a medium saucepan; bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Pour into a nonreactive container and refrigerate for 8 to 10 hours. Remove lemon strips and cinnamon stick; transfer to freezer for 1 to 2 hours, or until mixture is icy cold and edges begin to freeze.
2) Place egg whites in bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on high speed until frothy; add 3 tablespoons sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form. Refrigerate.
3) Place milk mixture in bowl of a stand mixer fitted with balloon whisk; beat until stiff peaks form, about 5 to 10 minutes. Fold in meringue. Scrape into a chilled pan and freeze for 2 hours.
4) Meanwhile, bring water and remaining 1 cup sugar to a boil. Add frozen berries and wine or juice; return to a boil. Reduce heat, simmer, uncovered for 5 minutes. Mash and strain berries, reserving juice. Return juice to pan. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until mixture is reduced to 3/4 cup. Chill.
5) About 1/2 to 1 hour before serving, move ice milk from freezer to refrigerator. When ready to serve, place a scoop of ice milk on a dessert plate. Surround with berries and top with wine sauce. Garnish with a mint sprig. Yield: 6 servings.

Potato Bread for Hannie

Mrs. C - Hannie - was born in Germany and was a whiz at replicating the flavors of the Rhine valley and the Balkans. What I know of bread and pastry making was learned in her kitchen and I know she'd really love this dark, slightly sour bread. My memories of Hannie range from the trivial - I proposed to her son, Jim, on my fourth birthday - to a wartime incident that marked my first steps away from childhood. To this day, I can vividly recall my mother and some of our neighbors kneeling in the street, scrubbing furiously, trying to erase the stain of a huge red swastika that had been painted on the curb outside Hannie's home. I remember Hannie crying. I remember how angry my mother was. Everyone on the block had been asked to help, but not everyone came. The genie escaped the bottle that day and we were never, any of us, quite the same again. I loved Hannie, but this atta girl is for my Mom and the other women who were on their hands and knees that day. Thank you for your example. Bless you all and know that you are remembered.

Seeded Potato Bread

Ingredients:
1 scant tablespoon active dry yeast
2-1/2 cups warm water, divided use
4 cups + 3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour + flour for kneading and dusting
1-1/2 tablespoons salt
1-1/2 tablespoons caraway seeds
2 cups stone-ground whole wheat flour
1 cup rye flour
1 cup unseasoned mashed potatoes (instant potatoes without milk & butter O.K.)

Directions:
1) Take off your rings. Place 1/2 cup water in a large bowl; add yeast and 3 tablespoons flour; whisk to combine. Let sit for 30 minutes. Add remaining 2 cups warm water. Stir in salt and caraway seeds. Add remaining 4 cups all-purpose flour and beat for about 100 strokes with a wooden spoon, or until mixture sheets on spoon. Stir in whole wheat flour, rye flour and mashed potatoes; mix well using a spoon or hands. Turn onto a floured surface and knead, adding flour as needed, for about 15 minutes, or until the dough is really elastic. Shape into a ball. Oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl and turn to coat all surfaces with oil. Let rise until double in bulk, 1 to 2 hours. Punch down and knead for about 5 minutes. Shape into a round loaf; place in a greased 12-inch ovenproof skillet and let rise for another 30 to 35 minutes, or until doubled in bulk.
2) Move a rack to middle third of oven. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Brush surface of loaf with water; use a razor to cut a 1/2-inch deep cross on the surface of loaf. Bake for 1 hour, or until brown and top sounds hollow when thumped. Dust top of bread with flour. Cool on a rack. Yield: 1 large loaf.

Tandoori Chicken

But is it really? Of course not! I don't own a tandoor - the clay oven in which the chicken should be cooked - and I don't use the copious quantities of cayenne and chili powder that produce the flaming hue of the real deal. Though most folks think the dish to be Indian, it actually was brought to India from Afghanistan. Whatever it's origins, this is a family friendly recipe that captures the spirit of the tandoor, rather than it's fire. A bit of a warning - while I think you'll enjoy this remarkably tender chicken, the masala spicing may not appeal to youngest of your children, and, while the chicken takes minutes to prepare, it needs time to marinate, so plan accordingly. Garam masala is available in the spice aisle of major supermarkets.

Tandoori Chicken

Ingredients:
6 to 8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon lemon juice, divided use
1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup plain yogurt
Garnish: lemon slices; parsley

Directions:
1) Brush both sides of chicken with 1/4 cup lemon juice. Cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2) Combine onion, garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin and remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice in a blender jar. Process on high speed until a paste forms. Add paprika, garam masala, salt, cayenne pepper and yogurt: process until mixture is smooth.
3) Liberally spread both sides of chicken with yogurt mixture. Place in a baking dish; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 to 8 hours.
4) Move a rack to upper third of oven. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with foil. Spray an ovenproof cooling rack with nonstick spray; place rack in pan. Place chicken on rack and bake for 25 minutes. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Saturday Musings 9-20-08

It's been a great week - my thanks to all who are helping make this happen. We are growing; in the mix are readers from China, Canada, Israel, Peru, Argentina, Japan and Hawaii and I'm thrilled!. I'll be back with more recipes on Monday, but till then:

1 ) A really great recipe for potatoes - yes potatoes - at Just Hungry.

2) A giggle from the irreverent Jaden at Steamy Kitchen.

3) Some gossip and insight for bloggers regarding Cook's Illustrated at Tigers and Strawberries.

4) Finally, some food for thought; “If you want to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first create the universe.” Dr. Carl Sagan

Crock-Pot: Thai-Style Sweet and Sour Chicken

I have a love-hate relationship with my crock-pot. I love it's energy efficiency and convenience, but I hate what it does to the texture of food. This recipe sidesteps the texture problem and produces an unusual sweet and sour chicken designed to please slightly more sophisticated palates. It will garner rave reviews - it actually got "two thumbs up" from my grandsons! If you like the classic flavors of Thai food and are a bit adventurous, you'll love this recipe. It's easy to assemble, inexpensive and delicious. Give it a try.

Thai-Style Sweet and Sour Chicken

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons finely minced ginger
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/3 cup tomato ketchup
1/4 cup lime juice
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
3 tablespoons cornstarch, divided use
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes, drained
1 (5-oz.) can sliced, peeled water chestnuts, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (divided use)

Directions:
1) To make sauce, combine ginger, garlic, and 2 tablespoons oil in a small microwavable bowl; microwave on HIGH power for 1 minute, or until mixture sizzles and is fragrant. Stir in sugar, vinegar, ketchup, lime juice, red pepper flakes and fish sauce.
2) Spray insert of a 5 to 6-quart crock-pot with nonstick spray. Cut each chicken thigh into 4 pieces. Place chicken, cornstarch, and 1-1/2 teaspoons salt in crock-pot. Toss to coat chicken. Add tomatoes and sauce; stir to combine. Cover and cook on HIGH for 3 hours. Mix reserved 1 tablespoon cornstarch with 2 tablespoons water. Stir into crock-pot. Stir in water chestnuts and 1/2 cup cilantro. Cover and cook until sauce thickens. Transfer chicken to a serving platter. Sprinkle with reserved 2 tablespoons cilantro. Yield: 6 servings.

Cumin Crusted Potato Cakes

This recipe is inspired by the potato dishes of Andalusia in southern Spain. It's much easier to prepare than the traditional tortilla de patatas and it's kinder to the waistline. The potatoes are highly flavored and are best served with a plain grilled steak or chicken breast. While they can be assembled early in the day, the potato cakes should be breaded and sauteed just before serving. These are best eaten the day they are made. If you're looking for something just a little different, this flavorful side has your name on it.

Cumin Crusted Potato Cakes

Ingredients:
2 pounds baking potatoes
2 large eggs, beaten
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons chopped scallions (white & tender green), divided use
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons toasted cumin seeds, lightly crushed
1-1/2 to 2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 to 1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Parsley for garnish

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Pierce potatoes with a fork. Bake for 50 minutes, or until soft. Set aside to cool slightly. Scoop flesh from potatoes in a medium bowl. Mash. Set aside.
2) Combine eggs, 1/2 cup scallions, cornstarch, baking powder, cumin seeds and salt in another medium bowl. Add mashed potatoes and mix with a large spoon until smooth. Divide into 8 equal portions; shape into 2-1/2 inch patties. Place panko in a flat dish; dip top and bottom of each patty in crumbs. Set aside.
3) Heat butter and olive oil in a large (12-inch) skillet; stir until butter melts. Add potato cakes and cook over medium-high heat for 5 minutes per side, or until crisp and golden. Remove to serving platter. Garnish with reserved 2 tablespoons scallions and parsley. Yield: 8 potato cakes.

North African Steak Pimenton with Harissa Sauce

Today's recipe is inspired by the food of Spain and North Africa. Smoky pimenton and harissa - a fiery red sauce containing chiles, garlic, coriander, caraway, cumin and olive oil - give this steak it's spicy Come to the Casbah flair. While I use a flat iron steak for this dish, any cut used for London Broil can be substituted; cooking time will, however, vary. The flat iron is cut from the shoulder blade and is remarkably flavorful; it's become a restaurant favorite and that makes it harder, still, to find. I routinely use a jaccard to tenderize steak and I'm always happy with the results. The steak is most flavorful if it sits for several hours before grilling. No grill? No matter. Use a griddle pan and your stove top instead.


North African Steak Pimenton with Harissa Sauce

Ingredients:
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon granulated onion
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet, smoked Spanish paprika (pimenton)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper
1 large (1-1/2 to 2 pounds) flat iron or flank steak
1/4 cup + 4 teaspoons olive oil, divided
1/2 teaspoon bottled harissa
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro

Directions:
1) Pierce both sides of meat at 1/4-inch intervals with a jaccard or meat fork.
2) Combine garlic, onion, cumin, paprika, salt and pepper in a small bowl.
3) Rub each side of steak with 2 teaspoons olive oil and half the spice mixture. Wrap the steak in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 8 hours. Bring steak to room temperature prior to cooking.
4) Meanwhile, combine reserved 1/4 cup olive oil and harissa in a small (1quart) saucepan. Cook over medium heat until oil is warm and shimmers. Remove from heat and set aside.
5) Preheat gas grill according to manufacturer's instruction for cooking by direct heat. Grill steak for 5 to 7 minutes per side. Place steak in a baking dish; pour harissa oil over steak and brush to distribute. Cover dish with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Slice steak, thinly, against grain; sprinkle with cilantro. Yield: 5 to 6 servings.

Lily's Lemon Sponge Pudding with Apricot Sauce

Lily - an old and absent friend - loved this version of sponge pudding. She had a keen palate (unaffected by stout and port), a wonderfully lilting voice (Scottish) that was at it's best when she was belting We Shall Not Be Moved using her words (see my playlist) rather than those of the movements. Lily had a keen mind - Oxford tends to do that - a sharp tongue and the vocabulary of a storm trooper. She took no prisoners, believe me! Lily made me smile - a lot! She was a self-professed lemon lover and this dessert is a lemon lover's dream. A simple batter produces a layer of sponge and a layer of pudding that delights and refreshes the palate. It's origins lie in Britain and colonial America, and it first appeared in cookbooks in the late 19th century. This version is intensely flavored. It's great peasant food; so, if you're partial to lemon desserts, ready your fork, pucker up and take a bite. It's nearly perfect.

Lemon Sponge Pudding with Apricot Sauce

Ingredients:
Pudding:
1-1/4 cups light cream or half-and-half (whole milk may be substituted)
2 to 3 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
5 large eggs, separated
1 cup + 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons whole wheat pastry flour (all-purpose flour may be substituted)
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup fresh lemon juice

Apricot Sauce:
1 small can(8.5-oz.)canned apricots in syrup, drained
1/2 cup apricot preserves
3 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon salt

Directions:
1) Adjust a rack to middle-third of oven. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Spray eight 6-oz. ramekins with nonstick cooking spray. Place ramekins in a roasting pan. Set aside.
2) Combine cream and lemon zest in a small saucepan; bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Let sit for 10 minutes. Using a fine mesh sieve, strain milk into a small bowl. Set aside.
3) Combine butter and 6 tablespoons sugar in a medium bowl; cream for about 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating just until incorporated. Stir in flour, salt, lemon juice and lemon-flavored milk. Set aside.
4) In another large bowl, beat egg whites with clean beaters until soft peaks form. Add remaining 3/4 cup, 1 tablespoon at a time, until whites are firm and glossy. Using a whisk, gently fold meringue into batter just until combined.
5) Spoon batter into prepared ramekins; place roasting pan containing ramekins on oven rack. Pour boiling water into roaster until it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for 35 minutes, or until small cracks form on top on the cakes. Transfer ramekins to a rack and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate.
6) Meanwhile, combine apricots, apricot preserves, water, lemon juice and salt in bowl of a food processor. Puree until sauce is really smooth. Strain through a sieve if desired. Refrigerate.
7) When ready to serve, run a thin knife around the edges of the ramekins; unmold onto dessert plates. Spoon apricot sauce around the cakes. Alternatively, serve puddings in molds and drizzle with apricot sauce. Garnish with mint sprigs if desired. Yield: 8 servings.

***Cook's Note: Ramekins must be thoroughly chilled prior to unmolding.

Chicken Long Rice

Aloha. Tourists rarely get to participate in the celebrations that are so much a part of Hawaiian family life. The family luau is a gentle affair and the food is remarkably good. Chicken Long Rice is a favorite dish and often appears on the table; it gets points for simplicity, economy and ease of preparation. It also gets points for taste; it's delicious and, I must admit, addicting. It's become one of my favorite comfort food and I'm not that all easy to please. No one is sure how it got it's name; it contains no rice and bean thread noodles are what gives it that glassy mien. The dish begins as a soup, but as it sits the broth is absorbed by the noodles and a bowl of soup becomes a bowl of noodles. Ingredients for this recipe are readily available.

Chicken Long Rice

Ingredients:
3 pounds chicken thighs with bone and skin
2-1/2 quarts water, divided use
1 tablespoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons fresh, peeled, and minced ginger
1 large onion (8 to 12-oz.) thinly sliced
1 7.5-ounce package Sai Fun (bean thread) noodles
2 teaspoons chicken base or 2 cubes chicken bouillon
3/4 cup chopped scallions, divided use
1 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper
1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Directions:
1) Place chicken in a large (6-quart) pot. Add 2 quarts water and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat; skim froth. Add ginger and onions and continue to cook for about 40 minutes, or until chicken is tender. Transfer chicken to a bowl. Reserve broth. When chicken is cool enough to handle, discard skin and bones, and shred meat.
2) While chicken is cooking, pour warm water over bean thread noodles; let sit until softened slightly, about 5 minutes. Cut the noodles in 3-inch lengths. Drain. Set aside.
3)When broth is ready, stir in noodles, chicken base and remaining 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let sit covered for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add chicken and 1/2 cup scallions; cook over moderately high heat for about 5 minutes to warm chicken. Add salt to taste. Stir in cracked pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve garnished with remaining 1/4 cup scallions and chopped cilantro. Yield: 6 servings.

Berry Patch Salad

I hit the berry patch again today. My hands are purple, I have a farmer's tan - guaranteed to keep me in turtlenecks for months to come - and there are two flats of berries on the table that need my attention really soon. I'm going to freeze most of them, but plan to use the remainder in a wonderful end-of-summer salad. The salad was originally a throw-together, but it worked so well that I decided to formalize the recipe.


Blueberry Cream Dressing:

Ingredients:
3 tablespoons blueberry vinegar
1/3 cup light sour cream
3 tablespoons light mayonnaise
1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
1/8 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Directions:
1) Place vinegar, sour cream, mayonnaise, salt, pepper and cinnamon in a small bowl. Whisk until smooth.
2) Cover and refrigerate. Yield: 3/4 cup.


Blueberry Salad

Ingredients:
6 cups assorted salad greens, rinsed, drained and dried
1 cup fresh blueberries
1 cup feta cheese
1 cup cubed chicken or turkey (optional)
1/2 cup candied walnuts

Directions:
1) Tear lettuce into bite size pieces. Add to salad bowl. Add berries, cheese and chicken or turkey (if using). Toss to combine. Sprinkle with candied walnuts.
2) Pass salad dressing at the table. Yield: 4 servings.

Blueberry Vinegar Ingredients: 2 cups unseasoned rice wine vinegar, 3 cups blueberries, washed and stemmed Directions: Mash the blueberries. Scrape into a 1-quart mason jar; add vinegar and shake to mix. Let sit at room temperature for 2 to 5 days. Strain and pour into a sterilized bottle. Seal. Store in pantry. Yield: 3 cups.

Candied Walnuts Ingredients: 1/4 cup granulated sugar, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 1/8 teaspoon salt, 1/2 cup toasted walnuts Directions: Coat a cookie sheet with nonstick cooking spray. Melt sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add pepper, salt and walnuts; stir with a spoon until walnuts are coated. Transfer nuts to pan; cool and break into pieces. Yield: 1/2 cup.

Our Daily Bread

Today's destination is memory lane. When my children were small this bread was always on our table. Over time more pressing demands grabbed center stage and homemade bread became an occasional treat. About a month ago the cost of my favorite bread broke the $5.00 barrier and I decided it was time to give bread baking another shot. I've still got game! And more importantly, I'm having fun and saving money, too. Yesterday, Jenny, at Picky Palate wrote about the compelling aroma of bacon. I'd like to add freshly baked bread to that list of really good, mind crazing aromas. This recipe makes a lot of bread, but it can be frozen, and, at a time when we're all concerned with greening our kitchens, the quantity makes for really efficient use of the oven. The recipe can, of course, be halved. Here goes!

Whole Wheat Bread

Ingredients:
5 tablespoons active dry yeast
1 cup brown sugar (light or dark)
6 cups warm water
1 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons salt
5 pounds stone ground whole wheat flour + flour for kneading
1 cup sunflower seed kernels
1 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

Directions:
1) Take off your rings.
2) Combine yeast, sugar and water in a very large bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes. Add oil, salt, 1/2 the flour, sunflower seeds and coconut flakes; beat with a wooden spoon for 100 strokes. Add remaining flour, and, working with hands, mix to form a very stiff dough. Turn onto a floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, using more flour as necessary to keep dough from sticking to work surface. Place dough, smooth-side down in a large bowl that has been coated with oil. Cover, place in a warm place and let rise for 1 hour, or until doubled. Punch down to original size and let rise again until double in bulk. Turn onto work surface and punch down. Divide dough into six equal pieces (1-1/2 pounds each). Form into loaves and place in generously oiled bread pans. Cover, and let rise again until dough reaches top of pans. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. during final rise.
3) Bake in the center of oven for 50 to 60 minutes, rotating loaves from front to back at the half-hour mark. Brush tops lightly with butter; remove from pans and cool on wire racks. Yield: 6 (1-1/2 pound) loaves.

Poblano Chicken

I'm heading to central Mexico today. The city of San Luis Potosi claims this dish as it's own, but I think the French may have had their fingers in the pie. Could it be that all cultures have their own version of bechamel? This wonderful dish uses poblano chilies to flavor a bechamel sauce and produce a gratin that is company worthy in minutes. The original recipe calls for Mexican crema, butter and a lot of cheese, but I've lightened it for today's more heath-conscious cooks.

Poblano Chicken

Ingredients:
6 (6-oz each) boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1 teaspoon kosher salt + salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1 large Poblano chile
1/2 cup 2 % milk, divided use
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided use
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
3/4 cup light sour cream
1 lime, zest and juice
Pinch of nutmeg
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 oz. pepper Jack cheese, coarsely grated

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Coat an 8 x 11 x 2-inch baking dish with oil or nonstick cooking spray. Set aside.
2) Use a mallet to pound chicken breast halves to a 1/4-inch thickness. Sprinkle both sides of chicken with salt and pepper. Set aside.
3) Remove stem, seeds and membranes from the chile. Place chile in a blender. Add 1/4 cup milk. Puree.
4) Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small pan over medium-high heat. Add flour and stir until smooth and lightly brown. Stir in chile puree. When smooth, add reserved 1/4 cup milk, sour cream, lime juice and zest and nutmeg. Stir constantly over low heat until mixture thickens. Add salt to taste.
5) Melt reserved 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet. Stir in vegetable oil. Place chicken in skillet and saute over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to prepared baking dish.
6) Cover chicken with Poblano sauce, sprinkle with cheese and bake in upper-third of oven for 10 to 12 minutes. Serve hot. Yield: 6 servings.

Blueberry Flognarde

It's a long way from the Limousin region of France to a blueberry patch in Oregon, but when the two collide the result is a luscious dessert called a flognarde. A what? They - the ubiquitous 'they' - insist a clafouti made of anything other than cherries is a flognarde. I'll accept that as long as they're willing to admit that this simple dessert - a cross between a pudding and a cake - is one of the glories of the French peasant table. It's best served warm and eaten the day it's made.

Blueberry Flognarde

Ingredients:
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
2 large egg yolk
1 large whole egg
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup 2 % milk, scalded and kept warm
1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 cups blueberries, picked over, rinsed and dried
Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Directions:
1) Adjust a rack to middle-third of oven. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Generously butter or spray a 9-inch flan or cake pan. Set aside.
2) Combine sugar and egg yolks in a large bowl; beat at medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, or until eggs are thick and lemon colored. Add whole egg and mix to combine. Add butter, a tablespoon at a time, beating to incorporate after each addition. Reduce speed to low; beat in flour, salt, then milk and, finally, lemon zest, lemon juice and vanilla extract.
3) Pour batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle berries over top of batter; press down lightly. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the batter sets and top is brown. Cool slightly. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Serve warm. Yield: 8 servings.

Cantonese Fried Noodles

The Chinese consider meat and vegetables to be accompaniments to their most basic staples, wheat and rice. Rice, contrary to belief, is not a staple throughout China. Wheat is cultivated in the north and rice in the south. The centerpiece of a southern Chinese table is a bowl of rice or rice-based noodles - not so in the north. The diet of the southernmost regions is the one most familiar to Americans - Cantonese. The food is mild and emphasizes freshness, tenderness, crispness and fragrance to please the tongue. Today's quest is the essence of simplicity - rice noodles with a little meat, some vegetables and a shimmering glaze of sauce. If you have a microwave, a wok or large frying pan and a sharp knife you can have this dish on the table in about 30 minutes. The microwave is used to blanch vegetables prior to wokking; limp, over-cooked snow peas will ruin this dish. I blanch vegetables because my burners don't produce enough heat to cook vegetables in a really short period of time; I suspect you have the same problem. You can, of course, fall back on the old boiling water-cold water plunge if you don't have a microwave. How long to blanch? That depends on the vegetable. Snow peas, nuked on HIGH power with a tablespoon of water, will be wok-readyin about 2 minutes. To prevent sticking, mist the bottom and sides of your pan with a nonstick spray or flavorless cooking oil; then heat the pan before adding oil for the actual cooking. The Chinese use a lot of oil and they like to reuse it. Classic recipes for fried noodles use upwards of a 1/2 cup of oil.This recipe uses 2 tablespoons. The Chinese use fresh rice noodles for this dish. I use medium-width rice sticks that resemble tagliatelle as fresh noodles are hard to come by in this area. The noodles come from Vietnam and are called bahn pho; they are available in various sizes S thru XL - go for L or XL. Pad Thai noodles can be used in a pinch, but follow box instructions for softening rather than those given in this recipe. Rice noodles can be purchased from online merchants.

Cantonese Fried Noodles...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:
8 ounces wide dry rice stick noodles (bahn pho)
2 tablespoons soy sauce, divided use
1 tablespoon rice wine
3-1/2 teaspoons cornstarch, divided use
1 teaspoon granulated sugar, divided use
8 ounces tender steak (i.e. sirloin or flatiron), thinly sliced
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
3/4 cup reduced sodium chicken broth
8 ounces snow peas, trimmed and blanched
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided use

Directions:
1) Cover rice noodles with boiling water. Let sit 20 minutes stirring occasionally. Drain.
2) Meanwhile, combine 1 tablespoon soy sauce, rice wine, 1-1/2 teaspoons cornstarch, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and beef in a small bowl. Toss to coat.
3) Combine oyster sauce, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 2 teaspoons cornstarch, chicken broth, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and sesame oil in a small bowl. Mix well. Set aside.
4) Coat bottom and sides of wok with a thin layer of oil or nonstick spray. Heat wok over high heat, add 1 tablespoon oil and warm until it shimmers. Add beef and stir-fry until just cooked, about 1 minute. Transfer beef to a plate.
5) Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to pan. When hot, add drained rice noodles and gently stir-fry until noodles are warm and coated with oil.
6) Add oyster sauce mixture; simmer, stirring slowly, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Add snow peas and beef, tossing lightly to combine. Cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter. Yield: 4 servings.