Out of the Rubble Rises A Phoenix called Nepal

I mean in no way to diminish the tragedy that occurred here in April, but thanks to the efforts of the Nepali army, the Red Cross and NGO's and church groups already in-country, life is back to normal here. Nepal is among the poorest of the poor countries and there has been no government here since 1997. There is now a constitution and it is expected that there will be an elected government before the end of the year. Until there are ministries to oversee public works and sanitation, it should come as no surprise that the streets and rivers are a mess and the population sorely suffers. Not so much from the earthquake as the economic circumstance that pervade the country. Existing squatter camps have been joined by Red Cross tent villages, but a real effort is being made to move the occupants of these temporary shelters to small homes. Financial aid has been funneled here and it looks like most of it is actually being used to better the lot of these people. Nepal's biggest problem now is India which has embargoed the transit of petrol to the country. There are rolling blackouts and public transportation has been brought to a crawl. The buses that run are standing room only and overflow moves to the roofs of those vehicles. Fortunately, Nepal is not dependent on food imports, so the Nepali people have enough to eat. The Western media has greatly overplayed the damage caused by the earthquake and the loss of tourists has caused financial damage and unemployment in the country. Wherever we went we were greeted with, "Namaste, it is good to see you (tourists) again." For those of you who have thought about visiting Nepal, now is the time to do it. There are neat piles of rubble in some areas, but they are deliberate. Once new structures are fortified, old beams and bricks will be used restore temples and stupas so they looks as they did before the day the ground moved.

We spent our first few days in Nepal in a terraced countryside retreat that made up in charm what it lacked in convenience. It abutted a small, agricultural community and we visited the home of widow who had a huge heart which she opened to our group of eleven. Her home consisted of 3 small rooms with 5 foot ceilings. These houses have no chimneys and cooking is done inside the home. As you might guess, women who live in these constructs generally have lung problems before their 50th birthdays. All farm work in this area is done manually, but these folks are self-sufficient. We got to see them take their harvest to market during the feast of Dashain, a 15 day celebration that is the most important in Nepal.

The holiday near emptied Kathmandu and that allowed us to visit holy sites and stupas without rubbing elbows with masses of humanity. We also visited the funeral ghats where most Hindus are cremated. Death takes no holidays, so this was a busy area despite the Dashain celebration. I will share limited photos with you, as I know the process will be upsetting for some. Try to remember, this is part of their culture and it represents the promise of a better life to come. On a lighter note, many of you know that Nepal is a kick-off site for treks and Himalayan assents. I still get the giggles when I hear Sherpa guides speaking German or French. My bad! I just can't help myself.

Nepal is a country on the cusp. Once its hydroelectric power is harnessed and money flows to its coffers, the younger generation can look forward to a good life. It will be too late for those in their 40's and 50's. The infrastructure is near collapse, not because of the earthquake but because of neglect. If ever we are blessed with another visit to this country, I hope we will find it as thriving and vibrant as its neighbors. Wish you were here...Mary

Dal Bhat - Pokhara

Dal Bhat











From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...Pokhara is a small Nepalese city tucked into the foothills of the Annapurna range of the Himalayas. Things, including time, move slowly here. Cars are not yet a problem, television transmission is intermittent and the air is fresh and clear. While the area tries to keep a low profile, 100,000 travelers arrive here every year. The city is a mecca for climbers and trekkers who account for 80% of its visitors. The area is also a retirement haven for Gurkha officers whose presence, coincidentally, keeps the crime rate low and the economy healthy. Those who come are charmed and pampered. Many stay. Hence, I can happily report it is possible to get fabulous pizza in the foothills of the Himalayas. The old city is much like the Kathmandu of my imagination, but accommodations are first-rate and are a welcoming place to train for, or recover from, strenuous outdoor activity. Part of the daily panoply is watching helicopters evacuate trekkers who have underestimated the toll that altitude will take on their bodies. Most recover poolside and still have the time of their life. I was completely charmed by Pokhara and its residents. If you are lured by the unusual and enjoy back roads and byways, Pokhara will enchant you as well.

In Nepal there's a entree called a Nepali set. It is an assortment of dishes arranged on a plate especially designed to feature each component of the meal. I'd like to take you through those components a step at a time and, today, we'll start with the two most basic elements of the dish. Rice and lentil are the staples of the Nepali people. They are eaten twice a day in a dish that's called Dal Bhat. The dish may be supplemented with curried vegetables, called Tarkari and pickles, but rice and lentils are always part of the meal. They will also appear on our expanded versions of the Nepali set that we'll build a step at a time. Here is the recipe for the rice and lentils that form the base of the Nepalese diet.

Dal Bhat...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:
Plain Rice (Bhat)
2 cups rice (Basmati or Long grain preferred)
4 cups (1 lt) water
1 teaspoon butter (optional)

Lentils (Dal)
1-1/2 cups lentil (any kind)
4 to 5 cups of water (depends preference of your consistency of liquid)
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
6 tablespoons clarified butter (ghee)
3/4 cup sliced onions
2 chillies (dried red chilies preferred)
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon fresh ginger paste (optional)

Directions:
1) To prepare rice: Wash rice and soak for 5 minutes. Boil the rice over medium heat for about 10 -15 minutes. Stir once thoroughly. Add butter. Turn the heat to low and cook, covered, for 5 more minutes until done
2) To prepare lentils: Wash lentils and soak lentil for 10 minutes. Remove anything that floats and drain. Place lentil in fresh water and bring to a boil. Add all spices. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 20 to 30 minutes until lentils are soft and have the consistency of oatmeal. In a small pan, heat remaining butter and fry onions, chilies and garlic. Stir into lentils a few minutes before you stop boiling. Serve with rice.

You might also enjoy these recipes:
Nepali Dal Bhat - Zack's Travel Musings
Dal Bhat - Experiments in My Kitchen
Dal Bhat - Yeti-Zone Trekking