Slow Roasted Ivory King Salmon - More Gifts from the Sea

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...Ivory salmon is a white fleshed King salmon native to waters of the Pacific Northwest. Most salmon get their color from carotene in the food they eat, but white or ivory Kings are genetically predisposed to process carotene rather than collect it in their flesh. Ivory salmon tends to be milder, silkier and more buttery in taste than regular Kings. They are rare and will cost a king's ransom when they can be found. We were gifted the fillets I'm sharing with you tonight. This is the first, and probably the last, time we have had this delicacy. Fifteen years ago, consumer demand was for wild red salmon, so when Kings with white flesh were found, they were tossed into piles heading to canneries or smokehouses. Ivory salmon cannot be identified until the Kings are filleted and their white flesh is exposed. Chances are they'd have remained in the cannery heap, save for the fact that segments of the food community began to demand novelty in their cuisine, and, as a result, the fish gradually found its way to some of the finest restaurants in the United States. Its color was the attraction, but its taste and texture kept it there. Pigmentless salmon has a softer, buttery flesh that is less fishy and more like that of a freshwater fish. I decided to slow roast the fish we had been given using a can't fail method that had been perfected by Charlie Trotter. Slow roasting produces a fish with a unique texture that will melt in your mouth. The appearance of the fish changes only marginally and it actually looks undone when you take it from the oven. Rest assured it's done and delicious. Should you have the good fortune to stumble on ivory King salmon, I hope you have a wallet that can take the beating this fish will give it. Here is how I prepared our fish.

Tsalila and Slow Roasted Salmon

Tsalila (sah-lee-lah) is an event held by local Indian tribal confederations here in the Pacific Northwest. It's a yearly celebration that marks the return of spawning salmon to local rivers. The star of the show is the salmon. A single fish is ceremoniously returned to the sea to appease the old gods and there are, of course, the obligatory drums and dancing for the tourist trade. The highlight of the day is slow cooked salmon, strapped to poles, suspended over cedar embers and roasted to perfection. A hunk of salmon, fry bread, pruny corn and pit roasted potatoes is not a feast of Lucullean proportions, but it is mighty fine grub.

I returned from the festivities with salmon fillets and a plan - not involving poles or open fire - for cooking them. Years ago, Charlie Trotter developed a method for oven roasting salmon at a low (250 degrees F.) temperature. The result was a succulent, tender piece of fish that had glorious color and a melt in the mouth appeal. Helen Rennie and Jaden Hare have helped to popularize the technique and it's one worth keeping in your cooking quiver. It's fast, not too expensive and simple to execute. Today's picture was taken at the end of roasting. Isn't the color fabulous?

Slow Roasted Salmon

Ingredients:
4 (6-oz.) salmon fillets
1 bunch scallions, washed and trimmed
1 bunch fresh dill sprigs, divided use
2 to 3 lemons, thinly sliced, divided use
Juice of 1 lemon
2 to 3 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

Directions:
1) Bring salmon fillets to room temperature. Adjust a rack to middle third of oven. Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. Mist an 8 x 11 x 2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.
2) Place scallions in bottom of baking pan to form a bed for the salmon. Cover with dill and lemon slices. Place salmon, skin-side down, on top lemons. Squeeze lemon juice over all. Brush fillets with oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lightly top with more dill and lemon slices. Allow to sit at room temperature for 1/2 hour if time permits.
3) Bake in preheated oven for about 30 to 35 minutes, or until fillets can easily be pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Carefully transfer to a serving platter. Remove topping and garnish with some fresh dill and a lemon twist. Yield: 4 servings.