Life at the Top of the World

After years of trying, we have finally reached Tibet, the rooftop of the world. The air in Lhasa is thin, and despite medication to prevent altitude sickness, many in our group were gasping for air as we moved from the plane to immigration control. The airport is about an hour from Lhasa proper, and the road to the city is banked by large complexes of vacant, newly built, mid-rise apartments. We could only guess they were the work of real estate speculators building in anticipation of an event that has yet to be announced. Lhasa, itself, is much as I imagined it to be. The streets are clean and colorful prayer flags fly from white washed buildings. Age seems to determine how people dress, with elders wearing traditional garments, while the younger people have adopted more western garb. While Tibet is a secular country, its citizens are profoundly devout and spinning prayer wheels and quiet chanting is the norm as folks move through the streets. The man who handled our luggage prayed as he moved suitcases from the coach to the hotel lobby. There are times of day when the incense that is burned is dense enough to make the eyes water. On a long term basis, I can only imagine what it would do to the lungs. The Dalai Lama is discussed only in historical perspective, although two of his palaces, actually monasteries, are as they were when he left the country. There are two principal palaces whose use was determined by the season. Winters at 12,000 feet can be bitterly cold, so the monks moved to lower climes as weather moved in. The Potala Palace, which is the seat of the Dalai Lama, is one of the most imposing structures I have ever seen. Guides take tourist up the 500 steps to the palace entrance. It sounds like a walk in the park, but believe me when I say it is not. The climb almost did me in and only determination got me to the monastery entrance. We also had the good fortune to spend time with nomadic farmers who opened their home, prayer room and kitchen to us. They lead simple spartan lives, but share what they have with their community and strangers who come their way. Until recently, the Tibetan diet was mainly meat based, but vegetables are slowly working their way to tables now under the influence of China and India. I must tell you that we had yak at all of our main meals. When it is well prepared, it tastes much like beef or buffalo. So, if you are looking for ways to cook yak, this blog is the place you want to be. We also had more than our fair share of butter tea. This is an acquired taste and while I find myself in situations where it is served, I haven't yet acquired that taste. The Tibetans are a gentle people who take no more from the earth than they need to survive. That principle of need is carried even into death. They refuse burial because they believe the land is for the living, not the dead. I could have spent several weeks here, but our schedule carries us on to Nepal. I will be posting more photos from Tibet on Facebook. Having been here for even a short time has been a blessing. Wish you were here...Mary

Tibetan Momo - Served in a Home Away from Home

Momo in Fresh Tomato Curry



Pokhara Valley



Tashi Palkhiel Refugee Settlement



Housing Area of Settlement



Community Hall



Settlement Monastery



Young Monks Following Induction Ceremony



A Break in the School Day



Kindergarten



Settlement Home for the Elderly

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...In Tibetan Buddhist tradition, it is expected that the second son of each family will enter the monastery and study to become a monk. I mention that because Bob and I had a tour guide who was the first son of one of the families who fled Tibet and formed the Tashi Palkhiel Refugee Camp in Pokhara, Nepal. That relationship led to one of the most beautiful and moving experiences of our trip. Good fortune put us in the refugee camp on a day when a new monk was entering the community and, thanks to the intervention of the second son, we were invited attend the ceremony. It was quite beautiful, replete with chanting that included the use of drums and the dungchen, or longhorn trumpet. Following the service we toured the camp to see how these folks had adjusted to their new environment. As might be expected, the young had no problems but their elders still clung to the hope of returning to a free Tibet. The community is remarkably cohesive and remains distinctly Tibetan despite living in the heart of Nepal.

I was curious to see how their diet differed from that of the Nepalese or Indian people. In truth, if the foods I sampled were typical, they are very similar. Tibetan food used Szechwan pepper to provide heat rather than the cayenne or red pepper that's used in India or Nepal and, while it is no where near as refined as the best of Indian cooking, the ingredients used are basically the same and similar dishes are produced. I sampled a soupy stew, dumplings, a bread and two desserts. I can't claim to be an expert based on that, but from that list I picked the dish I think you'll most enjoy. The recipe is for dumplings. Dumplings are a lot of work and it would help to have someone working with you should you decide to make them. The recipe is straight forward and if you are a dumpling lover you might want to give it a try. Here's the recipe.

Tibetan Momo...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:
Dough for wrappers:
5 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon oil
1 cup water or as required
Pinch of salt
Filling:
1 lb. ground lamb
1 lb. ground pork
1 cup onion, finely chopped
1 cup Napa cabbage, finely chopped
1 cup mushroom, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
1/2 teaspoon Szechwan pepper
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons cooking oil
Salt and Pepper

Directions:
1) For stuffing mixture, combine all filling ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Mix well, adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour to allow all ingredients to meld.
2) In a large bowl combine flour, oil, salt and water. Mix well, knead until dough becomes homogeneous in texture, about 10 minutes. Cover and let stand for at least 15 min. Knead well again before making wrappers. Prepare 1-in. diameter dough balls. It is recommended to work with a dozen or so balls at a time to prevent drying. Take a dough ball, roll between your palms to spherical shape. Dust working board with dry flour. On board gently flatten ball with your palm. Then roll out into 3-in diameter wrapper. Repeat with remaining dough balls. Cover with bowl to prevent from drying.
3) For packing hold wrapper on one palm, put one tablespoon of filling mixture and with other hand bring all edges together to center, while making pleats. Pinch and twist pleats to ensure absolute closure of stuffed dumpling.
4) Oil a steamer rack. Bring water in steamer to a boil. Place uncooked dumplings in steamer, leaving some space between them. Cover steamer and cook until dumplings are cooked through, about 10 to 15 minutes.Remove dumplings from steamer and serve warm with a sauce of your choosing. In Tibet momos are served with a sour pickle called achar.

You might also enjoy these recipes:
Indian Dumpling Basics - Asian Dumpling Tips
Chinese Dumpling Recipes - Asian Dumpling Tips
Nepalese Dumplings - World Recipes
Tibetan Food - Yowangdu
The Dali Lama's Momos - Palachinka
Nepaese Vegetable and Cheese Dumplings - The Global Gourmet