Showing posts with label halloween. Show all posts
Showing posts with label halloween. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Bread of the Dead - More Halloween Lore


Traditions associated with Halloween and All Saint's Day seem to be country specific. Most of Europe views Halloween  as a bother and further evidence that American culture and advertising is tainting their own. Prior to the 1950's, only English and Spanish speaking countries truly observed the day, though I'm told that in some areas of Germany knives were put away to thwart  returning spirits who might wish to do the household harm. All Saint's Day is another matter. It is a religious holiday in most countries of the world,  and while most traditions associated with the day are subdued, those  observed in Peru and Mexico are especially interesting. I first wrote about pan de muerto in 2009 and I thought this would be a great time for it to make an encore performance. 

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...The Day of the Dead, or Dia de Los Muertos, represents the melding of an old Aztec tradition with the religion of the Conquistadors. The celebration is actually a two day feast that coincides with the Catholic observance of All Saint's and All Soul's days. The first day of the celebration occurs on the 1st of November. It's called the Day of the Little Angels and it is set aside to remember children who have died. The second day is set aside to honor adults who have passed to the next life. It is important to understand that these are days of celebration rather than days of mourning. In homes that observe Dia de los Muertos, altars are built containing symbols of the four elements: fire, water, wind and earth. They are beautifully decorated and, because many believe that the deceased visit their homes during this celebration, food is placed on the altar to entice them to stay for the festivities. Feasting is an important part of both days of celebration. Good food, and clean homes are thought to entice the dead. Toy skeletons and skulls are welcome features and "dead" bread may even have a small skeleton, promising good luck, baked inside it. The second day of the celebration is usually spent outdoors with picnics in graveyards. It is a joyous time and seen as an opportunity for families to come together to honor the memories of those who have passed to the next life. It is hoped that the laughter and mention of the deceased will bring their spirits back to earth to visit with the assembled family members. To many, the Day of the Dead is a strange observance, but Mexican tradition views death as an important part of life, a natural consequence of living and one not to be feared. It's their belief that these celebrations connect families to each other and their deceased relatives, a proof, if you will, that the ties of love cannot be broken - even by the grave.

The Aztecs believed that death was a portal to another existence. Oral tradition tells us that the request of the dead before burial is, "Give me bread and sugar to help me on my journey." The bread of the dead, pan de muerto, is made only for the Dia de los Muertos celebration. It is a sweet, egg-rich bread and it can be found throughout Mexico, though its form differs vastly from one region to the next. The bread is supposed to resemble a skull and it is adorned with bones and sometimes tear drops.

I've chosen a very simple recipe for the bread and have opted for bare bones - forgive the pun - adornment. While this recipe appears in many places, I believe that its original source is "Look What We Brought You from Mexico." I actually had trouble with the first loaf I tried to make. I found 3 cups of flour produced a loaf that was heavy enough to be a door stop. The loaf you see in the photo was made with 2-1/2 cups flour. I've changed the flour measurement to reflect a range, but I strongly advise you mix with the lesser amount and use the last 1/2 cup for kneading. Here's the recipe, just in time for Dia de Los Muertos.

Pan de Muerto (Bread of the Dead)...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite
Ingredients:
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup (half a stick) butter, cut into 8 pieces
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2-1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/4 cup very warm water
2 eggs, divided use
2-1/2 to 3 cups all-purpose flour, unsifted
1/2 teaspoon anise seed
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons sugar

Directions:
1) Bring milk to boil in a small saucepan; remove from heat. Stir in butter, 1/4 cup sugar and salt.
2) In large bowl, mix yeast with warm water until dissolved and let stand 5 minutes. Add the milk mixture.
3) Separate yolk and white of one egg, reserving white for glaze. Add yolk and 1 whole egg to yeast mixture. Stir in flour, blend until a dough ball is formed.
4) Flour a pastry board or work surface. Knead dough until smooth. Return to large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in warm place for 90 minutes.
5) Grease a baking sheet. Punch dough down. Knead again on floured surface. Divide it into fourths and set one piece aside. Roll remaining 3 pieces into "ropes."
On greased baking sheet, pinch 3 rope ends together and braid. Finish by pinching ends together on opposite side to form a circle. Use remaining dough to form bones. Place them on the baking sheet.
6) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Cover bread with plastic wrap and let rise for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix anise seed, cinnamon and 2 teaspoons sugar together. In another bowl, beat egg white lightly.
7) Brush top of bread and bones with egg white, sprinkling only the loaf with sugar mixture. Bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes. Cool. Yield: 1 loaf.

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Thursday, October 24, 2013

Halloween Food Stories


I thought this would be a good time to revisit those foods that are historically linked to Halloween. The recipes being featured today are from Ireland and they each have a unique association the holiday. We'll visit other countries next week.

Soul Cakes

"Witches, ghosts, and goblins. Stealing down the street, knock on every door way, trick or treat!" The treat nowadays is candy, but the practice of dressing in costumes and going door to door for sweets dates back to the Middle Ages when the poor went begging for soul cakes. The cakes, which are actually cookies, were made for All Souls' Day. The devout mixed a measure of superstition with a dose of religion and believed that each cookie represented a soul that would be freed from Purgatory when the cookie was eaten. The cookies, called souls, were etched with crosses that clearly identified them as Alms for the dead and there was an expectation that a prayer would be said each time a cookie was eaten. Over time, the practice of souling was moved to All Hollows' Eve and the Alms for the dead were replaced with candy and other sweets. The cookies are a curiosity and it is their history that makes them interesting. There are dozens of recipes for "souls", most of which make a spicy shortbread-type cookie. Actually, the cookies aren't bad when freshly baked, but they stale fast, so eat quickly and, for heaven's sake, don't forget to say your prayers. The recipe can be found here.


Barmbrack

Both Van Morrison and James Joyce mention barmbrack, a yeasted sweet bread that's traditionally served on Halloween in Ireland. The Irish sometimes called it Báirín (top) Breac (dirty or speckled). Years ago the yeast to raise the bread dough was skimmed from the top of a vat of fermenting beer, the Bairin. The dried fruit was the Breac. It is the custom in Ireland to place trinkets into the bread dough. The charms determine if luck in the coming year will be good or bad. If a pea is found, the finder will not marry. If a coin is found, good fortune and wealth can be anticipated. A small stick indicates a bad or violent marriage, a piece of cloth poverty and a ring an impending marriage. Some cakes contain all these objects and fate is determined by what's in the slice of cake you receive. For the superstitious it's not unlike a crap shoot. Like many women, I seed my bread in such a way that only good luck is bestowed on any who are at my table. The bread is not difficult to make and I'm a bit surprised that the tradition has faded in so many Irish-American families. Soda bread is still made for St.Patrick's day but there are precious few families that still make barmbrack for Halloween. I have a pointer that will make your bread exceptional. In Ireland, the raisins and currants are steeped in tea for 24 hours before baking. At Chez Mary, they bathe in Jameson's Irish Whiskey. I have the happiest raisins in the Pacific Northwest. This is a lovely sweet bread. I hope you'll try it. The recipe can be found here.

Colcannon

Colcannon, a traditional Irish dish associated with Halloween, is made with potatoes and savoy cabbage and served with a well of butter in its center. It's simple and delicious and comes with folklore that's sure to please the curious or superstitious. The tale, as told to me, concerns the fate of unmarried women who would put the first and last spoonfuls of Halloween colcannon into a stocking and hang it on their doors. Their shared belief was that the first man who walked through the door would become their husband. Immigration statistics and the birth rate, all those years ago, lead me to believe this didn't work real well. Back then, the ingredients used to make colcannon could be found in any Irish country garden. The second bit of blarney revolved around the selection of a cabbage from that garden by a blindfolded, unmarried woman. The cabbage she selected would be used to make a colcannon into which a ring was hidden. Of course, the person who found the ring would be the next to marry. I must warn you that my recipe for colcannon uses classic ingredients but techniques that my grandmother would frown upon. There are two or three steps to assembling any colcannon. The meat, if used, should be cooked before the potatoes and the cabbage are started. I use a slab of bacon to make mine. Ham can also be used. I simmer it in water for about 45 minutes before dicing it. My potatoes are conventional enough, though I do steam rather than boil them. I prefer to cook my cabbage in a wok. It's the easiest way I know to assure crisp tender greens that aren't water logged. When it all is assembled it looks like a traditional colcannon, but there will be a hint of smoke to play against crisp cabbage. The recipe can be found here.

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Sunday, September 23, 2012

Orange Pumpkin Sheet Cake





From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...I paid a visit to the pumpkin patch today. Surreptitiously, the trip was to select pumpkins to line the stairs that lead to entry of our home. The real reason was to watch the children pick their Halloween pumpkins. When our children were small, Halloween was second only to Christmas in terms of the excitement it generated, and certain rituals quickly became associated with the holiday. So, hot or cold, wet or dry, preparations always began with a trip to the pumpkin patch where they were set loose to find their own version of the perfect pumpkin. They could have any pumpkin they wanted as long as they could carry it back to the scales without assistance. One of my children, who to this day, swallows life in great gasping gulps, always picked the largest pumpkin in the field and, of course, was left to puzzle how it move it. Today, I was reminded of that as I watched a four year old try to move a pumpkin nearly his size through the fields. My deja vu aside, I was also struck by how much children still love this holiday. As we move closer to Halloween, those of you who are asked to bake for it, might want to keep this simple dump cake in mind. It makes enough cake to feed the immediate world and it is very, very easy to make. I have one caution to share with you, and that regards the browning of the butter that is used in the icing. Don't let it get away from you. Remove it from the heat as soon as it turns a light golden brown. It will burn if you blink. This cake is wonderfully flavorful. Pumpkin pie spice and the juice and zest of an orange combine to give the cake a unique taste that sets it apart from others of its kind. The cake is light and refreshing and the frosting is delicious. I know those of you who try the cake will enjoy it. Here's how it is made.

Orange Pumpkin Sheet Cake...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite courtesy of Pillsbury Test Kitchens

Ingredients:
Bars
2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
2 teaspoons grated orange peel
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup orange juice
1 cup canned pumpkin (not pumpkin pie mix)
2 eggs
Lightly Browned Butter Frosting
1/3 cup butter (do not use margarine)
2 cups powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
2 to 4 tablespoons milk

Directions:
1) Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease bottom and sides of 15 x 10 x 1-inch pan with shortening and dust with flour, or spray with baking spray with flour.
2) Dump all bar ingredients into bowl of an electric stand mixer and beat  on low speed, scraping bowl as necessary, until ingredients are moistened. Increase speed to medium and beat for 2 minutes longer. Bake 23 to 27 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool completely, about 1 hour.
3) In 2-quart saucepan, heat butter over medium heat, stirring constantly, until light golden brown. Remove from heat. Stir in powdered sugar, vanilla and enough milk until smooth and spreadable. Immediately spread frosting over cooled bars. Refrigerate about 15 minutes or until set. For bars, cut into 8 rows by 6 rows. If desired, garnish each bar with orange peel strip. Yield: 48 bars.






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Monday, October 31, 2011

Spiced Pumpkin Fudge



From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...I guess this fudge could be thought of as green candy. After I had mixed the last batch of holiday cookies, I still had some pumpkin left in the can. Rather than toss it, I went looking for recipes that used only 1/2 cup of pumpkin. I found what I was looking for on the Libby's Pumpkin website and decided to try their recipe for pumpkin fudge. It sounded interesting and the recipe was straight forward, so, withing 3 hours I had fudge to add to the special treat bags I put together for the neighborhood children. Our home is perched on a hillside and the driveway that leads to it is steep in the extreme. Not many are willing to brave it, so we drop off treats for the children rather than have them come to us. The fudge was meant as an adult treat for their parents. The recipe can be made with white chocolate or butterscotch chips. I decided to go with the butterscotch version because that was what I had in my pantry. I also used my homemade pie spice (see Cook's Note below) rather than a commercial brand, but other than that I followed the recipe to a tee. It makes a very sweet fudge that will satisfy the most insistent sugar urge. While it may put the rest of us into sugar shock, it is nicely flavored and I can recommend it to those of you who really enjoy sweet things. The spicing makes the fudge a bit unusual and it certainly is seasonal. Here's the recipe for those of you who would like to give it a try.

Spiced Pumpkin Fudge...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite courtesy Libby's Pumpkin

Ingredients:

2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup light brown sugar
3/4 cup unsalted butter
2/3 cup or 5-ounce can evaporated milk
1/2 cup canned pumpkin
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
2 cups butterscotch baking chips
1 (7 oz.) jar marshmallow creme
1 cup chopped pecans
1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Directions:

1) Line a 9 × 13-inch baking pan with foil or parchment paper, leaving some hanging over the sides for easy removal.
2) Combine granulated sugar, brown sugar, evaporated milk, pumpkin, butter and spice in a medium saucepan. Bring to a full rolling boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Boil, stirring constantly, for 10 to 12 minutes or until candy thermometer reaches 234 to 240 degrees F.
3) Quickly stir in butterscotch chips, marshmallow creme, pecans and vanilla extract. Stir vigorously for 1 minute or until butterscotch chips are melted. Immediately pour into prepared pan. Let stand on wire rack for 2 hours, or until completely cooled. Refrigerate tightly covered. Cut into 1-inch pieces. Yield: 64 pieces (3 pounds).

Cook's Note: Homemade Pumpkin Pie Spice: Combine 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon ginger, 1/4 teaspoon mace, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves.

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Saturday, October 29, 2011

Soul Cakes for All Hallows' Eve




From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite..."Witches, ghosts, and goblins. Stealing down the street, knock on every door way, trick or treat!" The treat nowadays is candy, but the practice of dressing in costumes and going door to door for sweets dates back to the Middle Ages when the poor went begging for soul cakes. The cakes, which are actually cookies, were made for All Souls' Day. The devout mixed a measure of superstition with a dose of religion and believed that each cookie represented a soul that would be freed from Purgatory when the cookie was eaten. The cookies, called souls, were etched with crosses that clearly identified them as Alms for the dead and there was an expectation that a prayer would be said each time a cookie was eaten. Over time, the practice of souling was moved to All Hollows' Eve and the Alms for the dead were replaced with candy and other sweets. The cookies are a curiosity and it is their history that makes them interesting. There are dozens of recipes for "souls", most of which make a spicy shortbread-type cookie. Actually, the cookies aren't bad when freshly baked, but they stale fast, so eat quickly and, for heaven's sake, don't forget to say your prayers. Here's the recipe.

Soul Cakes
...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:
3/4 cup butter
3/4 cup superfine sugar
4 cups flour, sifted
3 egg yolks
1 teaspoon apple pie or pumpkin pie spice
1 teaspoon allspice
3 tablespoons currants or raisins
a little milk

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Generously coat a cookie sheet with nonstick cooking spray.
2) Cream butter and sugar together until fluffy and pale in color. Beat in egg yolks, one at a time.
3) Combine flour and spices. Fold into creamed butter.
4) Gently stir in currants or raisins. Add enough milk to make a soft dough.
5) Form into flat cakes and cut each top with a knife to make a cross.
6) Bake on prepared cookie sheet until golden, about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Yield: 14 to 16 cakes.








Pan de Muerto - Bread of the Dead
















Barmbrack - Irish Halloween Bread
















Colcannon - Irish Halloween Traditions
















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Monday, October 24, 2011

Apple Cider Donuts and the Halloween Donut Game





From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...Among my favorite memories of childhood are the block parties we had to celebrate Halloween. They were festive affairs that began with a parade and ended with a bonfire of fiercesome proportions, at least to those of us who had not yet reached the four foot mark. Tucked between the parade and bonfire were the games and challenges that we've all come to associate with Halloween. My favorite was the donut game. October weather in Chicago was iffy and getting drenched while bobbing for apples was not my cup of tea. I could handle wet, but wet and cold was beyond the pale. Besides, I liked donuts way more than apples and in short order became a champion at the donut game. Now, for those who have never played, the object of the game is simple. You try to eat donuts that are hung from a bar by strings of varying length. The only trick is that you can't use your hands to assist in the task. Hands must at all times be clasp behind the back and any infraction disqualifies you from the game. Back then we knew nothing about political correctness and things were called as they were seen. If you used your hands you were a cheater and were thusly labeled. Onerous, but then they were harsh times. While it is easy to see the connection between apples and the season, I've never really understood how donuts came to be included in festivities. I recently found an explanation that makes some sense of it. Fall was the traditional season for hogs to be put down. That meant cooks had plenty of rendered fat in which the donuts could be fried. I, for the life of me, can't find an explanation for the use of cider in donuts. Someone, somewhere, obviously thought it was a good idea and they were right. Cider donuts have a dense yet tender crumb that we've come to associate with cake donuts that are made with baking powder rather than yeast. The hint of spice and tang of buttermilk make them perfect for this time of year and for Halloween games. The donuts can be glazed if you like, but I prefer mine with a just a sprinkling of sugar. I know you'll like these. Here's the recipe.

Apple Cider Doughnuts
...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite courtesy of Lauren Dawson

Ingredients:

Donuts
1 cup apple cider
3-1/2 cups flour, plus additional for the work surface
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1/2 cup buttermilk (low-fat or nonfat work fine)
Vegetable oil for frying
Glaze
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons apple cider

Directions:

1) To make donuts: Place apple cider in a saucepan over medium heat and slowly reduce quantity to about 1/4 cup, about 20 to 30 minutes. Cool.
2) Meanwhile, combine flour, baking powder, soda, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg in a bowl. Set aside.
3) Beat butter and granulated sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer at medium speed until mixture is smooth. Add eggs, one at a time beating just until incorporated.Reduce speed to low and gradually add cider reduction and buttermilk, mixing just until combined. Add flour and mix just until dough comes together.
4) Line 2 baking sheets with parchment or wax paper and sprinkle them generously with flour. Turn dough onto 1 sheet and sprinkle the top with flour. Flatten dough with your hands until it is about 1/2 inch thick. Use more flour if dough is still wet. Transfer dough to the freezer until it is slightly hardened, about 20 minutes. Remove from freezer. Using a 3-inch doughnut cutter, cut out doughnut shapes. Place cut doughnuts and doughnut holes onto second sheet pan. Refrigerate doughnuts for 20 to 30 minutes.
5) Add enough oil to a deep-sided pan to measure a depth of about 3 inches. Attach a candy thermometer to side of pan and heat over medium heat until the oil reaches 350 degrees.
6) To make glaze: While cut donuts are chilling, make glaze by whisking confectioners' sugar and cider together until mixture is smooth. Set aside.
7) To fry and assemble: Add a few doughnuts to oil, being careful not to crowd pan, and fry until golden brown, about 60 seconds. Turn doughnuts over and fry until other side is golden, 30 to 60 seconds. Drain on paper towels. Dip top of still warm doughnuts into glaze or granulated sugar and serve immediately.Yield: 18 donuts.









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Monday, October 5, 2009

Barmbrack - Irish Halloween Bread - Blue Monday



The landmark Campanile, Trinity College Dublin. The college, established in 1592, is home to scholars and men of letters some famous, some forgotten. Among the blessed are Jonathan Swift, Oliver Goldsmith, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett. Trinity College has a deservedly proud heritage. While it's not well known, the Irish, including some matriculating at Trinity, revel in the celebration of Somhain, a Halloween festival that includes a parade and boisterous bonhomie to mark the end of summer and All Saint's Eve. All holidays have special trappings and this one is no exception. The zealous celebrate with costumes and special food. Some of the foods associated with the Somhain are colcannon, a potato dish, and barmbrack, a confection sweeter than a bread but less rich than cake.





Both Van Morrison and James Joyce mention barmbrack, a yeasted sweet bread that's traditionally served on Halloween in Ireland. The Irish sometimes called it Báirín (top) Breac (dirty or speckled). Years ago the yeast to raise the bread dough was skimmed from the top of a vat of fermenting beer, the Bairin. The dried fruit was the Breac. It is the custom in Ireland to place trinkets into the bread dough. The charms determine if luck in the coming year will be good or bad. If a pea is found, the finder will not marry. If a coin is found, good fortune and wealth can be anticipated. A small stick indicates a bad or violent marriage, a piece of cloth poverty and a ring an impending marriage. Some cakes contain all these objects and fate is determined by what's in the slice of cake you receive. For the superstitious it's not unlike a crap shoot. Like many women, I seed my bread in such a way that only good luck is bestowed on any who are at my table. The bread is not difficult to make and I'm a bit surprised that the tradition has faded in so many Irish-American families. Soda bread is still made for St.Patrick's day but there are precious few families that still make barmbrack for Halloween. I have a pointer that will make your bread exceptional. In Ireland, the raisins and currants are steeped in tea for 24 hours before baking. At Chez Mary, they bathe in Jameson's Irish Whiskey. I have the happiest raisins in the Pacific Northwest. This is a lovely sweet bread. I hope you'll try it. Here's the recipe.

Irish Barmbrack...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite

Ingredients:

1 cup milk
4-1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
4 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, divided use
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/3 cup butter, room temperature
1/2 cup currants
3/4 cup seedless raisins
1/2 cup candied lemon peel
Glaze
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon water

Directions:
1) Scald the milk or heat it on HIGH power for 1 minute in a microwave oven. Sprinkle yeast over warm water in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes to soften.
2) In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine 2 cups sifted flour, sugar, salt and allspice. Whisk to combine. Add yeast, milk and butter. Beat with paddle attachment for 2 minutes at medium speed. Cover and let sit in a warm spot for 30 minutes. When it has doubled in size, add 1 cup of reserved flour and beat with electric mixer on low speed until flour is well blended, about 1 minute. Repeat with the last cup of flour.
3) Turn onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead for 8 minutes, gradually working in currants, raisins and lemon peel. Place dough in a greased bowl, cover and allow to rise until double in bulk, about 90 minutes. Punch dough down. If you wish to add trinkets to dough, add them now. Shape the dough into a round loaf and set it on a greased baking sheet. Cover and let rise again until double in bulk, about 90 minutes.
4) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Bake loaf for 45 to 50 minutes. Combine sugar with water and brush over loaf. Cook for an additional 5 minutes. Remove from oven. Let sit for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool. Yield: 1 loaf.

This post is being linked to:

Smiling Sally - Blue Monday

Wild Yeast - Yeast Spotting
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