Czech Christmas Bread - Vanocka

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...I have another old-world holiday bread to share with you tonight. Vanocka is a Czech Christmas bread that has remained popular despite a history that dates back to the 16th century. At one time, this bread could only be made by bakers who were guild craftsmen and it wasn't until the 18th century that the loaves could be baked in home kitchens. In order to assure the abundance of the coming grain harvest, superstition demanded that the master of the house be given the first portions of the bread. A large Vanocka was sliced at the end of the meal on Christmas Eve, and after the master had his portion it was shared with others at the table. In some homes, superstition was so keen that a slice would also be given to livestock to keep them healthy and safe from evil spirits. This is not a simple bread to make and over time a variety of rules were developed to ensure the baker would meet with success. The woman who made the bread had to wear a white apron and kerchief, and while she couldn't talk, she was expected to jump up and down while the bread was rising. Go figure! In some households, a single coin was baked in the bread and the one who found it was assured of health and wealth in the coming year. They were almost as fortunate as the livestock who received the same protection by virtue of eating a slice of the bread. I really shouldn't jest. For years it was believed that a burnt loaf, or one that was torn rather than sliced, was an omen that would auger ill for the next years harvest. Today, the bread has only symbolic importance, but it has become an integral part of holiday celebrations in the Czech Republic, and its intricate braiding sets it apart from similar holiday breads in other countries. There are techniques for braiding the loaves that exceed my dexterity, but it is interesting to see how the myriad strands can be brought together to form this imposing loaf. A proper Vanocka should have at least six plaits. By stretching a few rules, my loaf actually had seven because I stacked them one atop the other following the directions given in the recipe below.. It's a bit like building the pyramids, though it would help to have a degree in architecture when assembling the loaf. Lacking that, but realizing that at some point the three tiers of my loaf would start to slip, I skewered them in the middle and at both ends to keep the bread intact. It worked, kinda', though I must admit that only the best side of my bread has been captured by the camera. If you share my culinary curiosity, you might want to give this recipe a try. Its towering braids, like mountain peaks, beckon and challenge the adventurous because they are there and we are not. I can now cross this one off my bucket list. It actually is a lovely loaf and I do hope some of you will give the bread a try. Here is how Vanocka is made.

Provençal Orange-Scented Christmas Bread - Pompe à l’Huile

From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...I am always drawn to holiday recipes whose roots can be found in regional or religious tradition. I was delighted when I stumbled on this bread which, in Provence, is part of the traditional le gros super, or Christmas Eve dinner. While this is a meatless feast, it is one that is rich in symbolism that has its core in the Trinity. In keeping with the Trinity, tables are set with three candles and three layers of tablecloths that have knots tied at the corners. The knots are to prevent evil spirits from using the cloth to make their way into the family. The cloths remain on the table for the three days of Christmas, and on Christmas Eve crumbs are left on the table to provide sustenance for the souls of ancestors, who are believed to visit the home while the family is at midnight Mass. The meal begins with a light soup that is followed by a fish course and vegetables that are flavored with aioli. There may also be a salad of bitter winter greens and a cheese course. However, the highlight of the feast is the les treize, a collection of 13 simple desserts. It's thought that the number symbolizes Christ and the 13 apostles. Tangerines or oranges and dried fruits and nuts accompany Pompe à l’Huile, a bread which is made with olive oil and scented with orange-flower water. While it sounds overwhelming, each type of fruit and nut is considered a dessert and the number 13 is easily reached. Some of the dried fruits and nuts are also symbolic, and almonds, hazelnuts, raisins and figs are called the four beggars, or les quarte mendiants, because their colors mirror the robes of mendicant orders. The type of fruits and nuts and candies will vary from one family to another, but the orange-scented Christmas bread will be found in all homes. Traditionally, the bread is shaped like a ladder that resembles fougasse, another famous regional bread. I tried to emulate the traditional shape, but the rungs of my ladder closed as the bread rose. I have relied heavily on a recipe that was developed by Martha Rose Shulman, and to avoid the problem, she suggests the bread be shaped into a ball or baked in a brioche pan. If you decide to make the bread, remember you have options as to how it is shaped. This is a barely sweet bread that has a subtle orange flavor. Sweet lovers will have difficulty classifying this as a dessert, but I think they'll love the bread for breakfast. It makes wonderful toast. If you have a stand mixer, you'll find this is an easy bread to prepare. The dough for this bread is damp and that may be off-putting to new bakers, but it does come together as it rises. I do hope you'll give this traditional recipe a try this holiday season. Here is how the bread is made.