From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...I am always drawn to holiday recipes whose roots can be found in regional or religious tradition. I was delighted when I stumbled on this bread which, in Provence, is part of the traditional le gros super, or Christmas Eve dinner. While this is a meatless feast, it is one that is rich in symbolism that has its core in the Trinity. In keeping with the Trinity, tables are set with three candles and three layers of tablecloths that have knots tied at the corners. The knots are to prevent evil spirits from using the cloth to make their way into the family. The cloths remain on the table for the three days of Christmas, and on Christmas Eve crumbs are left on the table to provide sustenance for the souls of ancestors, who are believed to visit the home while the family is at midnight Mass. The meal begins with a light soup that is followed by a fish course and vegetables that are flavored with aioli. There may also be a salad of bitter winter greens and a cheese course. However, the highlight of the feast is the les treize, a collection of 13 simple desserts. It's thought that the number symbolizes Christ and the 13 apostles. Tangerines or oranges and dried fruits and nuts accompany Pompe à l’Huile, a bread which is made with olive oil and scented with orange-flower water. While it sounds overwhelming, each type of fruit and nut is considered a dessert and the number 13 is easily reached. Some of the dried fruits and nuts are also symbolic, and almonds, hazelnuts, raisins and figs are called the four beggars, or les quarte mendiants, because their colors mirror the robes of mendicant orders. The type of fruits and nuts and candies will vary from one family to another, but the orange-scented Christmas bread will be found in all homes. Traditionally, the bread is shaped like a ladder that resembles fougasse, another famous regional bread. I tried to emulate the traditional shape, but the rungs of my ladder closed as the bread rose. I have relied heavily on a recipe that was developed by Martha Rose Shulman, and to avoid the problem, she suggests the bread be shaped into a ball or baked in a brioche pan. If you decide to make the bread, remember you have options as to how it is shaped. This is a barely sweet bread that has a subtle orange flavor. Sweet lovers will have difficulty classifying this as a dessert, but I think they'll love the bread for breakfast. It makes wonderful toast. If you have a stand mixer, you'll find this is an easy bread to prepare. The dough for this bread is damp and that may be off-putting to new bakers, but it does come together as it rises. I do hope you'll give this traditional recipe a try this holiday season. Here is how the bread is made.
