From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...The adventurous swim uncharted waters and gasp thin air in search of something most can't see or understand. Why? There is, of course, the joy of discovery, but as important, is completion of the challenge, an effort so intense it holds a promise that just might free these wandering souls and allow them to rest and age with grace. We who love to cook and eat are explorers of a different sort, but we, too, seek out the new and different and love the challenge that demanding palates present to us. I recently made a dish that could be served with rice or pasta. The problem was I wanted neither and had a taste for something new. I happened on Jacques Pepin's recipe for gnocchi Parisienne and decided to give it a try. Italian gnocchi are small dumplings usually made with potato or ricotta cheese. In Italy the word gnocchi means lump and that pretty well describes their appearance. The French version of gnocchi is less grainy and is made from pâte à choux, the same dough that is used to make eclairs and cream puffs. While this is at best a judgment call, I've found French version of gnocchi to be lighter than its Italian counterpart. It is also easier to make. Once made, the choux paste is shaped using a pastry bag or two spoons. The pieces are dropped into gently simmering water and cooked until they rise to the surface of the water. If they are to be baked, the gnocchi are immediately plunged ice water. If they are to be sauced or warmed in brown butter, they should be cooked for two minutes longer, then tested to make sure the center is no longer doughy before dropping them in ice water to stop the cooking. I am using the simplest of the French techniques to make my gnocchi. Most recipes bake them in a Mornay sauce. While I pull out all stops when we have guests, that is too caloric for a family meal, so I simply sprinkle them with cheese and bake them off. These are delicious when served right from the oven. While I make sauce available, I serve them plain. Once you've tasted them, you'll see why. I really hope you'll give them a try. I promise you won't be sorry. The gnocchi in the photograph above have been magnified and appear much larger than they actually are. Here's the recipe.Gnocchi Parisienne...from the kitchen of One Perfect Bite courtesy of Jacques Pepin and Food and Wine Magazine
Ingredients:1 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gruyère or Asiago cheese
Directions:1) Combine water, salt and nutmeg with 2 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as water boils, add flour all at once and beat dough with a wooden spoon until it is thick and comes away from sides of pan. Cook, stirring to dry out dough, about 30 seconds. Transfer dough to a medium bowl and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
2) Beat 1 egg into dough until incorporated. Beat in 1/4 cup of cheese and another egg until blended, then beat in last egg until dough is very smooth.
3) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Set a bowl of ice water near stove. With a large spatula, transfer the dough to a resealable plastic bag, pressing it into one corner. Cut off the tip of the bag; the opening should be about 1/2 inch long.
4) Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Carefully hold bag over the water and press out dough, using a small sharp knife or scissors to cut it into 1-1/2-inch lengths before it drops into pot (see Note). Simmer the gnocchi until it rises to top of water, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer gnocchi to ice water bath to stop cooking. Transfer the gnocchi to paper towels and pat dry.
5) Grease a 8 x 11-inch baking dish with the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Arrange gnocchi in dish and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese. Bake until puffed, about 25 minutes. Preheat broiler. Broil gnocchi 6 inches from the heat for 1 to 2 minutes, or until browned. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings.
Cook's Notes: The gnocchi dough can also be shaped with 2 teaspoons and wet hands. The dough can be prepared through Step 4 and refrigerated overnight before baking and broiling. It can also be frozen for 4 to 6 weeks.
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Gnocchi Poutine with Short Rib Ragu - Closet Cooking Restaurant Dish: Ricotta Gnocchi - Simply LifeSauteed Potato Gnocchi with Three Sauces - Big Black DogHomemade Gnocchi - La Dolce DuchessaButternut Squash Ricotta Gnocchi - Beyond the PeelGluten Free Potato Gnocchi - The Leftover QueenSweet Potato Spinach Gnocchi - AmyBitesHow to Make Gnocchi - Parisienne, French Style - Becks and PoshGnocchi Parisienne - Mike BereskyBouchon's Parisienne Gnocchi - Oui,Chef
From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...This is a spread that will not be to everyone's liking. It has a drab color and the predominant flavor of this sweet and tart jam is rhubarb. While I don't particularly like it on bagels or for breakfast toast, I think it makes a terrific quick appetizer when spread with cream cheese on freshly sliced baguettes. It also makes a wonderful sweet-tart glaze for sauteed or grilled chicken or pork. The recipe below requires canning equipment. While I sometimes make this spread for pantry storage, I usually bypass the water bath and simply refrigerate the jam in clean storage containers. I think those of you who like sweet-tart flavors will really enjoy this jam. If you like heat, I suggest you add a half teaspoon of red pepper flakes to the jam before storing it. If you fully process the jam, it will keep for a year on your pantry shelves. If you choose not to process it, the jam will keep for about a month in the refrigerator. I think those of you who appreciate spreads that are not to sweet will really enjoy this. Here's the recipe.
It was also a more overtly religious holiday than it appears to be today. We spent a lot of time in church during Holy Week, but it wasn't as oppressive as you might think. I will forever be moved when I hear the "Exultet" and the "Alleluia" from the Easter vigil services and I'm so grateful they were part of my childhood. While Easter may have no meaning for many, it's my hope that we all believe in new beginnings and the triumph of good over evil. So, whatever your beliefs, I hope you all bask in the sun of this new day.
From the kitchen of One Perfect Bite...Its name lured me as surely as the siren's song lured mariners of myth to death on rocky shoals. How can you resist something called a Summer Skyr Tart? I had visions of blond nymphs dancing in the pale glow of midnight sun, sipping champagne as they nibbled on elegant and Lucullean tarts. The romance of it all caused me to commit to its creation before I did my research and learned that skyr does not reference the midnight sun. It's a popular dairy product that is similar to strained yogurt, or soft cheese, and it's used extensively in Icelandic cooking. So much for romance. I also learned that skyr is thicker than yogurt and a bit sweeter. The product is not available here, so I decided to go with a Greek yogurt cheese that I've used for other purposes. As I browsed through the recipe it became clear that this dessert was not going to fall into the "sweet thing" category. It consists of cookie base that is covered with a barely sweet mixture of egg whites, cream cheese and yogurt. It is finished with a sprinkling of toasted almonds and strawberries. The recipe was developed by Beatrice Ojakangas, but I found it on a great blog called The Bohemian Kitchen. This is a large, thin tart. It will not set if you use a smaller pan and go for height rather than diameter. I used a 12-inch spring form pan to make my tart. I also made some adjustments to the recipe which I've highlighted in red. I added a small amount of almond extract and a pinch of salt to the cookie base. I also covered it with a 1/2 cup of warm strawberry jam before adding the yogurt layer. Please note that the recipe uses raw egg whites. Some of you might be more comfortable using pasteurized eggs or powdered egg whites. I like to use reconstituted egg whites because it alleviates the problem of having to store unused yolks. The tart will not set in the hour suggested in the recipe, so plan on at least 6 to 8 hours chill before serving. Now comes the hard part. I won't be making this again. It is a nice dessert, but it is very understated and almost boring. I suspect the results might be different if the tart were made with skyr, but until I can find a source for it, I'll stick with strawberry short cake. I hope some of you will try the Sumarterta and let me know what you think. Here's the recipe.
